This pattern was unexpectedly easy! I loved the process of it and it was super quick! My choice of fabric made it extra snuggly!!! Read on for all the details!
I went off the deep in and selected a knit fabric for my Papercut Pattern's Sapporo coat!! I selected a leopard print cozy knit coating in cream/navy wool blend from Stylemaker fabrics. I think was afraid of this choice at first, but after studying the pattern assembly and instructions, I figured my choice was safe. I wanted it to be more cozy! If you will note, several of the pattern pieces are interfaced, which would help reduce the stretch. My fabric also has 4 way stretch. The stretch was not very prominent along the grain, and this also helped the jacket hang well, without stretching too much horizontally. As you will see below, some of the interfacing is patched together, as I didn’t have pieces that long.
I used medium weight interfacing. I decided to line the fabric in a Robert Kaufman cotton poplin as this would help stabilize the coat as well. I didn’t want to line it with rayon or satin/silk, because this would make me colder when I first put it on!
Pattern Layout and Fabric Requirements:
The fabric layout provided in the instructions for cutting the pattern pieces is very well laid out and utilizes space very well. These pattern pieces are very large and awkward. I typically get away with ordering less fabric than the pattern calls for but not for this one! I discovered all too late that my fabric was not 56-60 inches wide, but actually 48” wide! Therefore, I had to order more fabric! I couldn’t make it fit. In conclusion, I think their fabric requirements are fairly accurate, and I don’t think you can get away with less! (I made the XXS)
This pattern fit is very generous. I made the XXS and the fit was perfect and oversized, as it is supposed to be. My measurements were in between the XS and XXS. I decided to size down.
How choosing knit affected my construction:
I don’t think my choice of knit for this pattern affected very much. Other than the fact that I had to use a stretch needle. I chose a 90/14, as I was sewing through multiple layers and the fabric was thick. I do have a serger, but did not choose to serge any seams. There were so many layers and I just used a simple zigzag stitch 1.5 inches wide and 2.8 inches long. You will need to test your fabric to figure out your appropriate zig-zag stitch length and width.
Several layers were sewn together, as you can see below!
The pattern instructions combined with the online tutorials on Papercut Patterns website (link below in summary) made this jacket a breeze! I completed the construction in one day!! I also found a youtube video by Jessalli Fabric to help with the lining. There is a part one and part two for the Sapporo Coat. I felt as though the extra tutorials on the Papercut website were very helpful for all parts except the lining. I had never put in a lining before, so I needed extra help!
I chose to skip leaving a hole in the lining down the side seam, and I was still able to pull the jacket through to the right side through the sleeve! Let me explain further. When you sew the lining pieces together (apart from the fabric of the main jacket) you are supposed to leave a hole in the side seam of one of the sides marked with notches. Both sides will technically have notches if you marked it on both, but you just leave one of them open. I did not do this. I assembled the lining completely, closing all side seams. Then I attached the lining to the jacket completely. Then I pulled the jacket through one of the sleeves before my last step (hand sewing the lining to the sleeve seam that connects the jacket to the lower sleeve).
It left me one less spot to hand sew closed!!! I did a ladder stitch to close the area connecting the jacket lining by turning the lining under approximately 1cm and the jacket sleeve.
And the end! This was a wonderful sewing project and just perfect for my #cosycardichallenge. It is so awesome and warm with all the wool!
Pattern: Papercut Patterns
Tutorial on Papercut Patterns Website
Helpful Youtube Sewalong
Fabric: Stylemaker fabrics Leopard Print cozy knit coating cream/navy 48” wide 5 yards
Robert Kaufman Superluxe poplin in stone from Fabricworm
Shoes: The Wooly Hobe in navy
Top: Me made Nikko top by True Bias in rib knit fabric from Indie Sew
Jeans: Super old stretch jeggings!
Necklace: Me Made necklace from Pink Coat Club