Papercut Patterns: Plaid Palisade Pants
I loved this pattern! It was made very well and was very very easy to follow! I even managed to make the pants out of plaid and do a fairly good job pattern matching! I have a lot to discuss for this blog including underlining my wool fabric and plaid matching!
I will briefly discuss:
-pattern layout and cutting out plaid
-pattern construction and underlining
-styling your garment
I bought this wool from A Thrifty Notion when she posted it on instagram. I think I waited about 5 seconds before deciding to buy it! It was so beautiful and unique and I loved the non-traditional look of this vintage plaid with the aqua lines running throughout. With the fact that it was wool and not super soft, I had to find a lining. I don’t really know the first thing about lining pants and I didn’t have any lining type fabric. I also wanted the lining to be easy to do. I searched through my fabric stash and found some linen that matched the color of the plaid aqua stripes! I decided to use “parisian blue” linen from the Sewing Studio.
The linen was such a pretty match, that I decided to use it for the pockets. I used it for two pattern pieces that would show up as a contrasting pocket. I cut out the pocket bags and pocket facings to get my pants to have this contrast. I love the look and it saved me from matching plaid in that area, not that I would even try with diagonal lines!
Because I used wool, I didn’t have to wear any further insulation underneath for 40 degree F weather! So that was great! I also did not have any scratching or itching because of my wonderful linen lining! The linen was great and breathable along with the wool. It was great to use natural fibers only! I only wish I could figure out what to do with the waistband! It was the only thing that was bothering me with wool touching my skin. I can tuck my shirt in and then it wont be a problem!
The pattern layout was fairly easy to follow on the instructions, however I did not follow it because I was worried about the plaid matching! First, I laid all of my pattern pieces out and determined which seamlines were going to be sewn together, There are two side pieces, two back and two front pieces!
I decided to cut one out with a notch on the pants pattern lining up with a strong line in the plaid. I then decided to cut that piece out without much worry, as long as it was lined up with the grain line appropriately! I then moved onto a piece that was going to touch that one. For instance, If I had just cut out the left front piece, I was going to now cut out the left side piece, Then, I would move onto the left back piece! I cut all of these pieces out with the fabric right side up, even though my plaid was on both sides. I also cut them out on a flat lay of fabric, no fold. I remembered that my pattern pieces had a seam allowance of 3/8” and then I kept this in mind when cutting out my pieces. I laid down the piece that was already cut out and lined it up with the plaid and next to a piece that I was about to cut. I folded the pattern back and folded the cut out pattern piece back about 3/8” to approximate where the seamlines would meet up. I then slid the cut pattern piece into the area where it would meet the other seam line 3/8” in. This sounds very confusing but you are basically seeing where you think they might meet and making sure the plaid matches. This is very hard to demonstrate in a picture so I am showing you two pieces that are already cut out with their seam allowances fold back and how the plaid matches. I tried to go in the middle of a square so that it was not as noticeable that there was a seam.
I also numbered all the pieces to be sure all of the time I spent matching seams was worth my while! I wanted those matching seams to be sewn together. I didn't want the left side leg sewn to the right front!
Of note, I cut out the waistband on the bias. I made sure I interfaced the whole thing!! If it is cut on the bias you run the risk of it warping completely out of shape without interfacing!
I cut out all the pattern pieces in the linen and then I serged them together with the wool! I made sure that the wrong sides were together! It was as simple as that. That is just how I decided to line the pants.
If I had to interface any pieces, I interfaced them before sewing them to the underlining. This made sure that the interfacing was actually on the material and not apart from it on the underlining.
It is a little hard to tell fit because the overall garment was thicker with 2 layers, both non-stretch. However, I feel it was pretty close to accurate for me! I would go with their measurements. Remember the waistband is elastic, so you may make it a bit tighter or looser easily, There is a chance to do that in the construction of the pattern.
Styling the Garment:
These pants are just amazing! The colors look great with almost all solids that I have in my wardrobe! They look great with tall boots but would also look great with flats and low cut boots.