Amsterdam Blazer by Orageuse Patterns

Phew, this jacket was a doozie! I would not call it a complete success as there are several problems that I don’t appreciate in the final garment, but I believe it all boils down to my fabric choice and choice of interfacing.

I will briefly discuss:

-Fabric choice

-Pattern layout

-Modifications to pattern pieces

-Pattern construction

-Pattern fit

-Styling your garment

Fabric choice:

This is where it is at people!! You need to pick something with some kind of structure and minimal drape. It can be soft, but cannot have a strong drapey feel, much like tencel twill (which is what I used). This is Tencel Twill IIfrom Blackbird fabrics. It is an absolutely beautiful quality tencel twill and the color is so gorgeous in person (penny). However, most people would know right away this would not be a good fabric choice, however, I am stubborn and wanted to try it! I thought it would be fine because the jacket is so heavily interfaced. Of course, it did not turn out like I wanted to.The interfacing on the hem of the jacket does show throw a bit because it has so much structure and the fabric itself does not. The lapel on the left side, also will not stay in place, even though I under stitched the lapel like I was supposed to! So my mom had the lovely suggestion of placing a pin there and just keeping it on the jacket! Sounds good to me!!! You can see more of this in my video!

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On the topic of interfacing, I used Pellon Medium weight interfacing. I think it was the fabric choice that ruined me in the end but the interfacing would not stay stuck to the fabric!! I do think I need to learn a lot more about interfacing! Guthrie and Ghani has a good videoabout interfacing and I know that the Love to sew podcastalso has helpful tips! Where you can really learn about the type of interfacing that you need is on the Closet Case Patterns website. She recently released the Jasika Blazer pattern and a Blazer classand there are many helpful blog posts to assist you in your choices! 

There is a very nice blog post specifically about sourcing supplies for the Jasika Blazer and she talks about interfacing and fabric sourcing. She talks about interfacing having trouble sticking to fabrics that are very smooth or if the fibers are brushed (the fabric has nothing to stick to)! I learned this in her video series after I had already cut out everything and fused it!! Haha! Also, she uses different types of interfacing for different parts of the jacket which will be so useful to know later on. I noticed she uses knit interfacing for the collar area, and this would have been wise for me because the interfacing is pulling a little funny on this part of the blazer! So……i cannot wait to take this online class!!!

Looking back, this fabric would have been fine if I would have either underlined it or interfaced the whole thing! I don’t love how it doesn’t look tailored. It looks more like a cardigan than I would like, but I have accepted it as not being perfect and I will still wear it! Haha oh well! Looking at the picture on the pattern instruction booklet, theirs is not super structured either and this didn't bother me when I first saw it, so I think it is alright!! I think I am just being super super picky and it is easier to see because it is a solid.

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The lining choice worked well. I loved this art gallery fabric Cotton lawn from Lamazi Fabrics. Its so gorgeous and gives the jacket a nice pop!!

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Pattern Layout: 

I have to say the instructions are very clear and it is clear where you need to interface the pieces. I basically placed interfacing on top of the pattern piece and traced the piece I needed. Then I cut this out.

I also used bias fusible stay tape that you can find on my Amazon Storefront! There is a small note in the instructions that states where to put this stay tape to offer more reinforcement, and I went ahead and did this. I did all my prep one or two days apart from constructing the garment, otherwise it's a lot to take in!

I also appreciated how all the pieces are numbered and you basically construct the garment in that order! I really appreciate those little details.

Modifications to pattern pieces:

There were no modifications made to the pattern! I did not dare change anything because this was my first blazer and I did not muslin!

Pattern construction:

The construction of this garment is definitely not simple but I believe the instructions are good. There were a few times I didn’t really understand them and had to read them over and over again but I eventually figured them out! I still don’t quite understand how to attach the facing to the lining to essentially close the jacket, however, I just did my best! The instructions are very detailed and do make sense if you read them correctly. There were a couple of strange parts, like when you bring together two seam allowances to basically make the lapel. You will see once you are there!

There are so many things I could say about all the construction parts of this jacket but it would be better done in person with a detailed class! There is so much to making a blazer! If you have any questions, just send them my way and I can help you! If you stuck with a part of the instructions, just let me know on instagram or shoot me an email!

I also did not include the buttons, because I didn’t love how the jacket turned out and I knew I would be wearing it mostly with a belt. I figured I wouldn’t waste the time to put them in! Haha!

Pattern fit: 

This pattern actually fit me very well. It’s thin in the arms and has a nice boxy feel. I did not use shoulder pads but did use a sleeve head in each (which was recommended), which was very easy to put in and I ordered them from Amazon. The particular one I used is not available right now but I liked one that is also good and comes in a roll. There are also many you tube videos out there about making your own! Its not really a big deal!

I think the shoulder seams sit nicely on my shoulders but what do I know! They appear to be good haha!

Styling your garment:

When I had this blazer in mind, I pictured wearing it with a tiny belt for closure, and some skinny jeans. I want it to look casual and that is how I wore it for these pictures! I think you could wear it with a lot of things! I think a nice fluffy tulle skirt would be so cute! I also think it would look good dressed up with a sparkly camisole or ogden cami by True Bias and some velvet or leather pants!! wooohooo!

Have fun with it! And please pick the right fabric!! Haha!

Blazer: Amsterdam Blazer by Orageuse patterns

Fabric: Tencel Twill II in the color Penny from Blackbird Fabrics

Linked supplies: Sleeve head and bias fusible stay tape

Lining: Art Gallery Willow Blooms Spices premium cotton from Lamazi Fabrics

Jeans: RTW (ready to wear) and super old!

Shoes: Hobes Chelsea Boot

Shirt: RTW super old lilac shirt!

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Jody SmithComment